Sands Of Time

THE CLOCK IS TICKING

Hoppers Diminishing

hormones in ascendancy

RIFFLE & RUN  -- OR -- RIFFLE & POOL?

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.. First there needs to be a bit of "Air Clearing." There are big fish in almost all of the waters of Yellowstone National Park. It happens. Accept it. This is the time of year when hormones and instincts trump simple conventional wisedom.
.. If a large, (for the neighborhood,) trout is 22" or more, then there was a large trout, (two actually,) taken at the confluence of the Gibbon River and Solfatara Creek . . .  TRUE!
.. There have been several very large fish taken near the confluence of the Gallatin River and Specimen Creek. A couple of giant fish have been taken in the very thin water of Bacon Rind Creek. just west of the highway, (bet you drove right past them.) Of course there have been bucket-loads of large fish taken in the park-line-pools at Bakers Hole on the Madison River.

.. The simple fact is that mature trout migrate instinctively upstream to gravels suitable for spawning. That's going on right now and the surprises are wondrous to behold.
.. Recent fishing along the park reaches of the Gallatin River has been delightful, (save for the smoke in the air and air temperatures in the low 80's.) There are still some hoppers and spruce moths and beetles and flying ants attempting to swim in the river.

.. Fall catching on the Gallatin River is enhanced by finding the optimum conjunction of terrestrial and aquatic circumstances. No giant insight here.
.. The most successful neighbors count at least five factors that must come together in very extremely close proximity for optimum catching: Sagebrush Flats, Willow Bottoms, Lodgepole Pines, Riffles punctuated by Dark Water Pools, and Undercut Banks. The diversity and availability of foodstuffs in these areas accounts for both trout and bear density. Keep that in mind!
.. The weather is often less of a factor than conventional wisdom would dictate. Right now we're in a similar weather pattern that we experienced two years ago when temperatures of 85°F were seen in October. It could happen again.

.. Fish are still migrating and spawning. Photoperiod and water temperature are key triggers for the current sort of sexual shenanigans that the trout are enjoying.
.. The near-term weather forecast calls for unseasonably warm and dry periods for up to the next two weeks.
.. Evenings, of late, have been in the 20's but promise to rise into the 40's. Some clouds and some widely scattered showers may grace parts of the neighborhood but they will not significantly alter the trend - or the trout and bear behavior. Keep in mind that the berry crop is low and the bruins are ranging widely.

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. . . Into It's Own

WORTH THE WAIT

Elbows Diminishing

catching is way too easy

FOLLOW THE TRAIL TO SERENE MEADOWS

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.. The sweet sister river on the west side of Yellowstone National Park is in perfect shape for catching.

.. With flows about 100 CFS below seasonal averages, and temperatures at a fish loving perfection, the GALLATIN RIVER has become the choice destination for fishers of all stripes.
.. The hoppers are going mad with delight at the very warm days. They awaken predictably after the Fall-like cool evenings. They swim poorly, much to the delight of fish and fishers alike.
.. Some flying ants are present near the northern park line, and Spruce Moths have found their way to the river from the edges of the wooded meadows.

.. The golden hues of Fall are invading the emerald rainbow of the valley floor at a rapid clip. Straw colored grasses are creeping toward the green's of the river's edge.
.. Our sparse afternoon rains have allowed the beetles to mature at an astonishing pace. AND - lo, the predictable caddis are present in satisfyingly large numbers.

.. GALLATIN RIVER tributaries, in the park, have begun to look too thin to hold fish of any appreciable size. Don't be fooled. The fish seem to know the season even before the calendar or the weather.
.. It takes a bit of a walk to get there, but the tangled willow meadows of FAN CREEK are easily the second finest place to surprise yourself with an outsized fish.

.. If you can bring yourself to brave the dusty road along the edge of BACON RIND CREEK, and if you can forego the urge to rush upstream from the parking lot, and if you are not in too big of a hurry to reach stream side - THEN - there are some pudgy resident fish not 40 yards from that selfsame dusty road.
.. Should you care to brave the bears and brambles of the cloistered stretches of SPECIMEN CREEK, you will have found the third best chunk of water for surprises of the largish sort.
.. The dinky little parking lot at the trailhead is almost constantly full of vehicles. Some of the invading $40,000 SUV's receive their first bit of parking lot rash in these environs.
.. Our destination, this weekend, as usual, is the upper reaches of the GALLATIN RIVER. It's that lonely stretch along the Bighorn trail. We end up hoarse from singing to the bears and winded from the walk. We pledge, after each foray, to never torture ourselves again.
.. Yet, back we go to the isolation, beauty, splendor, and gregarious fish of this bit of water. The bears miss us and it's easily the fourth best place to gather up a submarine in water so thin that they leap onto the bank and land themselves.
.. On the other hand, we may end up at the first best place to catch the early run monster fish of the GALLATIN RIVER.
.. It doesn't take a horse to get there but one would make it a lot easier. You'll know where as soon as you see the only rig in an unlikely pullout far from any named tributary. The one near the giant culvert.

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TOO THIN TO HOLD A VERY BIG FISH  ---  DON'T BOTHER

Gallatin Frenzy

THE ELBOW INVASION

Some Stretches Still Available

take a number or a tributary

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.. With the famous west-side rivers in Yellowstone National Park closed because of high water temperatures the neighbors are flocking to the Gallatin River. The visiting license plates are also proliferating.
.. Right now love abounds on the Gallatin River in Yellowstone National Park.
.. Feather merchants have begun to shift their vocabulary. Guides are re-learning the pull-outs and parking spots.
.. The ever faithful caddis are making their daily appearances. Sometimes it seems like all day. Some days there is a curtain call about 7:30 PM.
.. Love of caddis fishing is one of the staples of the Gallatin River. Floating, bottom bouncing, and skittering are all caddis behaviors and all are successful - at various times. Elk hair, deer hair, light, dark, green, brown, big and little flies have devotees along this river.
.. Of course there are some other flies and other hatches. Of course there are people who wait for hours on end until they see a nose in the air. Of course there are fisher folk that must be able to see their fly in order to catch a fish. But - there is always some sort of caddis fishing available.
.. Currently there is a smattering of PMD's, a few Flavs, (and or drakes,) and still, the wayward - but small, (mostly yellow,) stoneflies, and other assorted fluvial bugs.

.. The terrestrial hatch is well underway and ants, beetles, bees, spruce moths, and hoppers are increasing their populations by the day.
.. As the elbows crowd the easily accessible water near the highway it behooves the fisher with good legs, good lungs, and an appreciation of the remote to seek out the tributaries. [[ BEAR SPRAY IS MOST STRONGLY ADVISED.]]
.. Already exuberant love is being spread up Specimen Creek (by both bears and fishers.)
.. Gentle fondling is taking place along Fan Creek, (especially the lower reaches.)
.. Penetration into the willow meadows of Bacon Rind Creek has been discovered. {{Hint: there are some large fish along the dusty road leading to the parking lot.}}
.. Incursions up the Big Horn Trail are becoming nearly commonplace. Such love is seldom seen on this neighborhood river.

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.. As you most certainly know, the Gallatin River trends north/south; this means that the fish switch hides periodically during the day.
.. The sun & the shifting shadows play a big part in fish location. It's important to keep this in mind as you caress the banks with your gentle strides.
.. Should you bother to notice it, the fisher's trail is way too close to the bank. Your footfalls and shadow will telegraph your loving intent far before you get to where the fish were.
.. Stealth techniques will reward the fisher, even on this most forgiving of our neighborhood streams.
.. Remember that beneath the surface these high valleys are covered with glacial detritus of one sort or another.
.. The Gallatin River cuts through a terminal moraine along the Big Horn Trail. Outwash gravels and boulders predominate in the subsurface strata for most of the park section of this river.

.. These tightly compacted stones are amazingly efficient conductors of sound and vibration. Galumphing and brush busting will get you there quicker, but the fish may know it long before you arrive.
.. Don't catch them all!

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Takin' Five

BIG DOIN'S IN TOWN

Neighborhood Feasting

rods running

DELIGHTFUL AND USEFUL FOR SUMMER DINING

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.. On occasion, there are happenings that take precedents over fishing. So we participate.
.. This last weekend we were chided mercilessly for missing the morning bug frenzy on the Gallatin River, (mile post 29,) and the evening suicide flights of the fresh hoppers - same place.

However . . . .

.. We enjoy the benefits of a large Latino population in our village. One of them is the importation of fine Mexican food products. Peppers, sure: Maria's Cookies, Coconut Candy, Gamesa Sugar Wafers, etc.
.. Before we continue, the recipe below is one of the most useful ever devised - just make it up and try it - in everything!

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CHILI PASTE

One bag of dried peppers, (seeds, stems, skin and all!)
4 cloves, (or more,) garlic,
1/4 cup sugar,
1 Tablespoon salt,
2 Tablespoons milk,
1 (or 2,) Tablespoon cooking oil, (Olive oil - if you choose,)
White vinegar to make paste - add very slowly for desired consistency,

Throw it all in a blender - blend until really smooth. Refrigerate overnight for best taste and consistency.

Add bits of paste, (to taste,) to hamburgers, soups, salad dressings, mayonnaise for sandwiches, stews, fresh salsa, tartar sauce, etc. YUM  - YUM

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.. As close as we got to fishing was the observation of gear in the village. The owners were, as we were, enjoying the cruising Street Rods, Hot Rods, and Custom cars at the 42nd annual West Yellowstone Rod Run.
.. Of course several neighborhood feasts were happening and we had to visit them all since we could not show favoritism to any of the neighbors.

.. Even some of the neighborhood fishing fanatics cut short their marathon catching, (the Gallatin River is hopping right now,) and used the excuse that their arms were sore from catching so many fish.
.. There are 16" fish in Bacon Rind Creek, There are 14" fish in Specimen Creek, There are 20" fish at the park line near Snowflake Springs, - AND - the Taylor Fork is running cold and clear.

.. Now is the time for your favorite hopper-dropper combination. Float 'em both, sink 'em both, float one and sink the other - it's all good.
.. The apparent most successful combination, (we weren't there,) reported by the catchers of note, was a high floating hopper, (size 6 - 10,) followed by a drowned Stiff Hackle, (size 10 - 14.)
.. We caught a few of the neighbors at the park and around town and snapped some photos of the cars. It was just a wee bit too hot for our taste but the doin's was worth it.

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The Ides Of July

NOT ALL WATER IS MUD

But Much Of It Is

seek and ye shall find

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.. It's impossible to see the fish under Fishing Bridge. We're not even sure that they are under the bridge. Boaters on the lake report that there is a silt plume that describes a river course through much of the lake. Pelican Island looks like several clumps of trees in the water.

.. This is the time to NOT FISH the Yellowstone River. But folks will!
.. The discharge from Yellowstone Lake is leveling at about 9,300 cfs. That's right at 5,000 cfs above the seasonal norm. It's nearly 2,000 cfs above historically record rates for the last week. That's a lot of water!
.. Discharge on the Firehole River is descending toward it's seasonal flow. Temperatures are ascending toward their seasonal highs.  Mid day spikes are already at 74° F.
.. The Gibbon River is a mere 120 cfs above seasonal rates and is clearing rapidly. There are still some large bugs around and some mid day caddis. The big meadows are drying, the bison are grazing, and the mosquitoes are buzzing. Stalking and crawling is better than wading --  but only if you want to catch fish.
.. The Lamar River is at it's seasonal high and is continuing it's Jekyll & Hyde phase by responding to local thunderstorms with lovely colors of brown and puce mud. Soda Butte Creek is slowing just a tad but is still best fished above Ice Box Canyon.
.. The Madison River is high, quick, and clear. 300 cfs above seasonal discharge is easily handled by the moderately incised channel of the river and fishing is good and some fishers report that it's as good as it gets.
.. The Gallatin River is still a rampaging storm of water but is clearing. Some of the higher tributaries that we usually look to this time of year are still muddy - or worse. Above the Bighorn Trailhead there are some "Ant-Eating Fish." Bacon Rind Creek is still high and colored, but the first meadow is holding some hold-over spawners. We have it on good authority that it's a good seven mile walk to get out of the chocolate milk on Fan Creek.
.. The Gardner River is high, roiling, & surprisingly clear below Boiling River: the catching is good. There are big bugs and hearty souls that fish among the boulders.
.. Grebe Lake is doing nicely, thank you. Take a leech and find some Grayling. These pretty little fish are very willing right now. The mosquitoes are not too bad. If you weigh more than about 200 pounds they won't be able to carry you home to the kids for a snack.

.. The Lewis River can be had. It's still big for this time of year but the bank-holding fish right at the plunge pool are starved for attention and for food. Help them out. Just above the falls is doing pretty well too.
.. So, on the Ides of July, where's a fisher to go? What's a fisher to use? Fish the Madison River all day. Slow water and foam-line drift a spinner in the morning, fish big and ugly down deep in the noon day sun. Carry your caddis / miller / hopper-box for late afternoon and evening. The little hoppers have entered their second molt and don't fly real good yet.
.. Fish the Firehole River from sun up 'til 11:00 AM, if you must. A double nymph rig with the upper floating and fuzzy will be all you need. In the evening the caddis are becoming overwhelming. You can get on the river about 5:00 PM and wander around. Watch the banks and sink one too.
.. There's bears and moose all over Duck Creek. If they don't get you the mosquitoes will. There are fish. There are willing fish. There are easily caught fish. There are hazards. You should have two canisters of bear spray and sharp eyes. Please obey the closure rules if you try this.
.. The bodacious and willing Brook Trout of the upper Firehole River have come alive. The are "getting air" as would a 14-year-old skateboard champ. They eat anything and everything that will fit in their mouth. They will strike at much bigger offerings. This section of the river should be banned for fishing - it's too easy. Just above the southern closure bridge, down in that little canyon that you said you'd fish someday, is a population of unmolested logs. Its only a 1/4 mile down to the fish. It's about 3 miles back up the steep sides. Legs are required to score here.
.. We say this quietly: Nez Perce Creek is full of fish that have run away from the high water in the Firehole River. Walk just a bit, beware of bears, wolves, moose and mosquitoes. Stay on the trails and don't fall through the thin crust of the thermal areas. Catch a few fish on anything that floats, or sinks.
.. The Little Firehole River, Iron Spring Creek, and the plunge pool at Fairy Falls all have fish waiting for your visitation. Treat them gently in this time of stress.

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Strange Conspiracy

SNOW MELT ACCELERATES

Little Rivers Are Big

no rest for the wicked

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.. Despite the predictions for a protracted season of fishing on the Firehole River, Mom and the snow pack have conspired to punctuate angling with a bizarre coincidence. The river spiked to 70° F yesterday and set a new "for-the-day" record discharge at 150 cfs above the previous maximum. Air temperatures in the west side river valleys ranged from 80° to 86°F.

.. We seek the little rivers during the Fourth Of July Madness. This year the rivers were there. The elbows were not there. But, the little bits of water were big bits of water. Normally these streams are not even visible until it's time to cast. This year they were visible from 50 feet away. The fish are hiding from the rapid discharge and it's easy to find them; it's hard to present anything to them.
.. We took a few from a couple of different rivers and exhausted our self during the process. The bushes and stream-side debris won all the battles: the fish won more than their share. It's tough to battle a 10" trout when five feet of your seven foot rod are under the bushes and the 18" leader is wrapped around a branch.

.. We literally had to force feed the obstreperous fish. The allowed us the poke them with the rod. Ah, such is fishing without much catching.
.. A couple of the neighbors wandered the willow jungle along the upper Gallatin River. They saw a moose and some bear sign. They teased some fish and danced with a couple. Good on 'em!
.. At least the wildflowers are out in force. There are ants, beetles, and the first molt of the grasshoppers was observed in one upland are not too far from the river's floodplain. It's really an interesting time to fish.
.. Morning fishing on the Firehole River is picking up. There seems to be some activity all day long. No monster hatches have been encountered yet, but the fish are looking up more frequently. The Madison River is clearing at a good pace despite it height and bug imitations are beginning to replace buggers and streamers as the flies of choice.
.. There are some nice meander bends in the big meadows of the Gibbon River that are starved for love and attention. The fish don't mind at all. The little meadows of the Gibbon River are worth visiting as is the Firehole River above the cascades.
.. Grebe Lake is finally accessible without too much mud-slogging.
.. As long as there is a breeze the mosquitoes have a hard time with their targets. They are worst in the trees right now.
.. Most people park where shown on the map and dash to the lake. We like to park on the road further down by the river and fish our way to the lake.
.. It takes longer, we sometimes don't make it to the lake, and occasionally we take a Grayling along with the others.Remember that a permit is requied if you choose to horse your float tube to the lake.
.. There's more to tell but the sun is already waking the mosquitoes and the lines are astronomically long at the West Gate. We slept late, avoided food for coffee and this post. You just had to know.

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And The Heat Goes On

85° F IN OCTOBER ?

Average Max = 55° F

oh well

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.. As the warm weather continues, (briefly interrupted by insignificant cooling showers,) the neighborhood hunters and fishers are befuddled about how to approach this most searing of late fall weather in recent memory.

Upper Gllatin Dry Channel

.. It looks like after the hottest decade on record, it’s the hottest year on record, and barely removed from the hottest week of all time in satellite record, (LINK.)
.. Don't fish the Gallatin River above Bacon Rind Creek. Don't fish above Mile Post 25. Don't fish the Confluence Meadows or Fan Creek.
.. Don't even think about fishing until you're well below Specimen Creek. And then, don't bushwhack through the willows because the bears are thick.
.. And why not? Simple enough; there's no water. And where there's no water, there's no fish; not even the fabled sand trout of Arrakis.

Upper Gallatin Nearly Dry Channel

.. The hoppers are dying of heat stroke and the beetles only come out at night. The heated air is so thin that caddis seldom make it off the water, and the trout are too few and lethargic to bother them.
.. Or: it's so bleak in the N.W. Corner of Yellowstone National Park that most of our fishing neighbors have taken up indoor, (air conditioned,) shuffleboard.
.. Some fishers are braving the intense heat and lung searing dryness, (not really as bad as it gets around Bad Water, California,) and occasionally hooking up with a dehydrated and oxygen-starved trout.

Local Hopper - Not Hopping

.. These poor fish look worse than kippered herring and some of them are floating belly up in the few shallow runs left in the Confluence Meadows.
.. Discharge from Bacon Rind Creek , and Specimen Creek add just enough water to the Gallatin River to make fishing a possibility.
.. Catching is probably still a crime, but it's being done.
..There are a few runs and deep holes in the meadow sections of the river along the Bighorn Trail that still hold energetic fish.
.. These are the fish that the bears and coyotes haven't caught yet. Human entrails full of jelly beans have been reported but remain unverified as of this moment, (thanks Tom.)

Fish Here If You Must

.. Were we rich enough to afford the gasoline we would sail across the park to the Lamar River. There's still water over there, along with bugs, fish and good catching.
.. Were we smart enough we would take our own advice and saunter down the shady path beside the upper Firehole River.
.. Were we sociable enough we'd hitch a ride with the neighbors that have cabin cruiser's on Yellowstone Lake or Hebgen Lake.
.. As it is, we choose to visit the Gallatin River near the big shady pools around Black Butte. Had some brief dances and a fairly long conversation with fish in the 10" - 12" range. But we bailed out when the sweat fogged our trifocals.
.. If you have an excursion planned to this part of the world in the near future, please exercise the telephone. Locales, hatches, heat, and water temperature will affect your chances for catching.
.. Call a local fly shop and ask to speak to someone that was on the water an hour ago. You may get some good tips. Better yet visit them and ask the hard questions: when did you last fish that stretch?, or have you ever fished that stretch?, or who told you that story?, or are there a lot of fish there?, or . . . .

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